Designers found new ways to play the androgynous hand this season showcasing classic men’s tailoring numbers like crisp button-down shirts, tailored jackets, and pintuck trousers. Tailored separates with sleek and angular lines in black and white colors with a touch of femininity projected a stealth stance to the modern lady-boss look.
While Heidi Slimane reinvented the timeless Le Smoking look incorporating bold and flashy S&M details, using a skinny leather tie, chained platform shoes and fishnet stockings, Loewe and The Row were more mellow, applying soft tailoring and volume to their looks. Instead of jackets and trousers that are fitted to-a-t, the designers showcased a softer side to the formalwear this season with wide-legged pants and oversized outerwear. In juxtaposition, Slimane transformed daytime office attire into a powerful playsuit for a dominant bad girl who owns sex appeal and who also has authority and masculinity all in one look.
Plaid has a long and rich history in fashion. The highland tartan used to be associated with specific Scottish clans in 19th century, and then later it was incorporated into aristocracy and military clothing. Even later yet it was reinvented by the British youth as a symbol to express anti-establishment during the punk rock period. This season, the crisp, unique pattern that represents dignity and exclusivity was spotted on the runway everywhere.
There’s nothing more eye-catching than mixing two strong elements together. Capara’s I Am In The Moment FW15 collection combined bold, neon colors with a plaid pattern for a striking effect. It turned the authoritative tartan print into a fun, De Kooning-like pattern. Plaid became less rigid but still linear; playful in a reserved manner. The modern grunge spirit is most certainly deeply imprinted in the plaid pattern. Think punk rock meets street style - team a slouchy plaid shirt with a hoodie, leather jacket or an oversized puffy outerwear piece like Alexander Wang or Marco this season for a chic and too-cool-for-school look.